The cost of surfing big waves.
Endless paddling. Getting smoked. Over and over.
This is the part most people never see.
Pay to play.
The cost of surfing big waves
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dont you mean death ? not a bad hair day, unk = cooked
Thanks for posting this a lot of people just see you catching the perfect big wave, but they never see this side of getting caught inside or paddling back out.
To me… that's not the REAL cost … The REAL COST – is when you come back to the surface, and find half a board.
Fight to hold your ground, then pray that the lull is long enough.
The comfort zone.
Moves. Not just with you getting older. The weather your in shape or you're not in shape.
When you're in shape this is all just comfortable. When you're not…. It's hazardous
bro called 6 foot big waves
To see the line up 50 feet away and not be able to quite get there is the worst.
This happened to me body surfing , I couldn't get in to shore stuck in the break line just getting slammed up for a breath and down again the lifeguards were watching with their buoys I made it in and flopped on the shore dang I'm too old!
As usual the choice of music goes hard
This is me in one-foot waves
Gotta pay to play.
Strong upper body with high level aerobic fitness is vital. Balls as big as a football field are also essential.
Its faster to duck dive and punch through the wave than to go over the top. You can start paddling sooner to try and avoid the next big one
YIKES
…been there, done that: Dawg is under gunned
Alex G. Loves the fight.
Sisyphus was a surfer
One of the PLANETS ALLTIME BEST WORKOUTS…… DIG, DIG,DIG!!!! Builds incredible stamina…. And you never sweat!!!!!! It’s awesome!!!!
Wednesday was crazy, very few spots got this good, blacks beach was one of those spots, and the conditions were all time